Vietnamese terms

Helpful Vietnamese terms and items,commonly used in cooking!
Agar-agar (thach-hoa)-Agar-agar is a gelatin derived from refrined seaweed. It is available in 2 forms: packages of two 10-inch-long rectangular sticks (kanten in Japanese), or 2 to 4-ounce packages of 14-inch translucent strands that resemble crinkled strips of cellopahne. It is widely used in Southeast Asian cooking for molded jellied sweets, as it sets without refrigeration in temperatures up to 100 F. To use agar-agar, saok it in warm water for 30 minutes. Squeeze the pieces dry. Add to cold water in a saucepan (as a general rule, 1/2 stick of kanten or 2/3 ounce of agar-agar will thicken 4 cups liquid) and simmer until the agar-agar dissolves completely. Add sugar or other ingredients and heat again just to a boil. Pour into a mold or dish and refrigerate until set.
Alum-For keeping foods crunchy, an important characteristic in Vietnamese cooking. Used in fruit recipes, and wherever that crip texture is wanted. Found in Oriental groceries, it resembles rock sugar except that it has a clearer color. Just break off as large a piece as you need.
Anchovy sauce (mam nem)-A blend of fermented ancovies and salt, this sauce comes bottled and has to be diluted and seasoned to make the traditional Mam Nem sauce. It is available in Vietnamese and Thai groceries; the best brand is labeled "Saigon's Mam Nem." Store it in the refrigerator after opening. Substitue canned anchovies or anchovy paste, mixed with a little water.
Asian basil (rau que)-This tropical anise-flavored basil, with purple stems and flowers, is available only at Vietnamese and Thai markets. Also known as Thai basil, this herb is exceptionally flavorful. It is a prerequisite for flavoring Pho, a famous beef and noodle soup. Substitute purple basil or regular sweet basil.
Asian eggplant (ca tim)-Also known as Chinese eggplant, this long, thin, seedless lavender variety has a sweet flavor and no hint of bitterness. Small firm ones are considered the best. Unlike Western eggplant, they do not require peeling, salting or rinsing.
Bamboo shoots (mang)-Bamboo shoots (mang) Bamboo shoots fall into 2 categories: winter and spring. Winter shoots are best ("Ma Ling" or "Companion" brand preferred); they are dug up from the cracked earth before the shoots grow to any great length or size, making them extra-tender and tasty. Spring shoots are larger and more stringy. In Asian markets, look for bamboo shoots that are kept in large plastic tubs; although they are also processed, they do not have a tinned taste (like the canned ones). Pickled or "sour" bamboo shoots (mang chua) are fresh shoots preserved in brine. They are sold shredded or sliced in vacuum-packed plastic bags. Use for stir-fries and hearty soups.
Banana leaves (la chuoi)-In Vietnam, banana leaves are used to wrap foods for steaming or to enfold food for carrying. The food is served in the leaf, but the leaf is not eaten. It is sold fresh or frozen in 1-pound packages in Latin American and Asian markets. To use, thaw (if the leaves are frozen), then dip the leaves briefly in boiling water to make them pliable. Usually, an overwrapping of foil is necessary to prevent water from seeping into the food. Store unprepared leaves in the freezer. Substitute Ti leaves (available fresh at florists) or foil.
Bean curd/tofu (dau hu)-Known in the U.S. as tofu, the pressed bean curd of the soybean has all the essential amino acids, is low in calories and is totally without cholesterol. It is flavorless but blends beautifully with other ingredients. You can do absolutely anything with bean curd: deep-fry, saute, steam, bake, simmer, broil, or puree. In comes in 3 textures: soft-added to soups or steamed dishes where cooking times is brief; semisoft-used in stir-fries; and firm-for stuffing and deep-frying. If bean curd is not to be used the same day, it should be put in a container with water to cover and then refrigerated. Replace the water each day. Cared for in this way, bean curd will keep for a week or longer. It is abailable in supermarkets or Oriental markets.
Bean sprouts (gia)-Mung bean sprouts, the most widely available variety, can be found almost anywhere. Never use canned bean sprouts; they don't have the crunchy texture that is their main characteristic. You can also grow your own from dried mung beans. They are eaten raw, added to soups or stir-fried. They will keep, covered with water, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. In preparing fresh bean sprouts, keep in mind that they are mostly water. When stir-frying bean sprouts, do it quickly over very high heat, or they will release water and thin out the sauce.
Blender-For pulverizing seeds, mixing batters, making coconut milk, and so forth.
Bok Choy-Also known as "Chinese cabbage," this is a very mild vegetable, actually a member of the Swiss chard family. It has an elongated shape and very white stems with dark green leaves. Its construction is similar to that of celery.
Carambola (khe)-Also called star fruit, carambola is a deeply ribbed, yellow-green tropical fruit that is ovoid in shape. Sliced, it yields star-shaped pieces that are beautiful for garnishing. Traditionally, the unripe, sour fruit is eaten raw in salads. In seasoning soups, it may replace tamarind.
Carrot Peeler-We are all familiar with the swivel-action peelers. On our recipes we use this peeler for cutting paper-thin slice of vegetables, usually carrots for Carrot Salad, and other recipes. In Vietnam, we have another peeler, very similar in design to the carrot peeler although a bit cruder in construction. It has a wider blade, which makes it possible to cut a much wider strip, and it is also made of a much heavier metal.
Cellophane noodles (mien/bun tau)-Also called bean threads or mung bean vermicelli. Cellophane noodles are not really noodles but rather a vegetable product made from mung bean starch. They are used primarily for their texture in soups and stuffings. Soak in warm water for 30 minutes, then cut into shorter lengths before cooking. If they are to be deep-fried, cook them straight from the package (they will puff dramatically in hot oil), then use as a nest for stir-fries. They are sold in 1-pound or 2-ounce packages in Asian stores and some supermarkets.
Charcoal Stoves or Barbecues-We use this for all cooking in Vietnam-barbecuing, simmering, boiling.
Chile paste (tuong ot tuoi)-A fiery hot mixture of mashed fresh red chiles, garlic, salt and soybean oil. Do not confuse this product with Chinese hot bean paste. Look for "Huy Fong" brand. It is used as a table condiment and seasoning for sauces and stir-fries. Substitute mashed fresh chile pepper.
Chile sauce (lak kiu chuong/tuong ot)-Also known as Sriracha hot chile sauce. This bottled, thick, fiery Louisiana-style hot sauce is made from ground fresh chile peppers, garlic, saugar, salt and vinegar. It is used as a table condiment and seasoning in soups and salads. Substitute Sambal oeleck or Tabasco.
Chiles (ot)-Vietnamese cooks use two basic varieties of chiles. First, there's the large, elongated red or green chile, resembling the Italian pickling pepper. It is mildly hot and used sliced or whole, for garnishing. It is available in Asian markets, Caribbean greengrocers and some supermarkets. The second type is a tiny, fiery hot pepper called "bird" pepper, used for seasoning. Usually, these green and red chiles are mixed in small plastic bags and sold in Vietnames and Thai markets. Refrigerate or freeze, wrapped in a plastic bag. Substitute fresh cayenne peppers or serrano chile pepper, the kind used in Mexican salsas.
Chinese cabbage, flowering (cai xanh)-Distinguished by its yellow flowers and by its firm, small-steammed stalks and crisp green leaves, this variety is considered the best Chinese cabbages and is much prized by Vietnamese cooks. The taste is pleasant and mild and the texture tender but crsip. The stems must be peeled. Substitute Italian broccoli rabe (rapini).
Chinese cabbage, Swatow mustard (cai tau)-Also known as mustard greens, this vegetable resembles head lettuce in size and shape but differs in that the leaves wrapping the heart are thick stalks. This variety has a particulary sharp flavor, adding a wonderful clean taste when combined with other ingredients. However, after parboiling, the stalks become tender and succulent and the assertive flavor gets milder. Cut the stems into strips before cooking. Pickle or "sour" mustard greens (cai chua) are the young tender hearts of mustard green cabbage preserved in brine. They are sold vacuum-packed in plastic bags. Use for stir-fries and soups.
Chinese chives (he)-These ling, flat green chives resemble large blades of grass. The flavor is reminiscent of garlic as well as onion. They are a common ingredient of Vietnames Vegetable Platter and Fresh Spring Rolls. They may be used as you would Western chives. Chinese chives are sold by the bunch. Refrigerate, wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to 3 days.
Chinese flowering chives (hoa he)-These are the thin, stiff flowering stems from Chinese chives. They are distinguished by a single, conical bulb at the tip of each stem. Sold fresh by the bunch, the stalks are tender and mild to eat. Select young stems with small, hard, tight flower heads; those with open flowers are considered fibrous and too old to eat. Refrigerate, wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to 3 or 4 days. Cut the flower and stem into 2-inch lenghts and discard the bottom inch or so. Use in soups, salads, stir-fries or wherever an onion flavor is desired.
Chinese kale/broccoli (cai lan)-This vegetable is distinguished from the other cabbages by clusters of white flowers and white haze on the leaves. It has smooth, round stems that are tender, succulent and flavorful. The stems must be peeled. Stir-frying enhances most of the good points of this vegetable. Substutute Western kale.
Chinese sausage (lap xuong)-Chinese sausages may be made from pork, duck liver or beef, but pork is most popular. Thses dried, red, sweet sausages (lop chong in Cantonese) are sold, hung by the strings, in Chinese meat markets or in 1-pound packages in Asian groceries. Blanch before cooking (to make the sausage less fatty). An easy, delicious way to cook this sausage is to place it directly on top of rice as it cooks in pot.
Chopsticks-The Vietnamese cook uses a long pair of bamboo chopsticks for stirring and cooking, never the stirrer or spatula that the Chinese cook uses for stir-frying. Standard-size bamboo chopsticks are used for beating, turning, and mixing.
Coconut milk (nuoc dua)-Coconut milk is the chief ingredient used in preparing Vietnamese curries and sweets. It is the liquid wrung from grated and soaked coconut meat. The clear and flavorsome juice inside the hard shell is called coconut water; it is mainly used as a soft drink or as a tenderizing agent in stews and fondues. It is much easier to buy canned or frozen coconut milk, available in Asian and Caribbean markets, than to make your own. Do not confuse coconut milk with coconut cream, a heavy, sweetened coconut product often used in Latin-American cooking.
Curry paste (tuong ca-ri)-This chile oil-based curry paste is more pungent and spicier than curry powder. It is usually combined with curry powder to give a dish an assertive flavor. The best brands are "Daw Sen" and "Golden Bell," sold at Indian and Chinese groceries.
Daikon (cu cai trang)-Also known as Oriental white radish, this root is distinguished by its large cylindrical size (similar to a carrot), with smooth skin and whitish color. The flesh is crisp, juicy and mildly pungent and absorbs the flavors of soups and stew. It is also consumed raw in salads or pickled. Substiute white turnip.
Dried shrimp (tom kho)-These are shelled, dried and salted shrimp with a pungent flavor, used in small quantitites to season certain dishes, especially soups and stir-fries (it is not a substitute for fresh shrimp). The larger in size and darker pink in color, the better the quality and the higher the price will be. Soak in warm water for 30 minutes or longer before cooking. Reserve the intensely flavorful soaking liquid; it will give a delightful lift to soups and sauces.
Egg noodles (mi)-In areas with a substantial Asian population, egg noodles are sold dried, in packages, or fresh in the refrigerated sections of Chinses markets. Two basic varieties are used: the long, extra-thin Cantonese-style egg noodle strands called don mein, often swirled into a nest, used for deep-frying, and the broader egg noodles called fu don mein, about 1/4 inch wide and flat, used in soups. Fresh egg noodles are preferable. Do not confuse them with "chow mein noodles." Store in plastic bags in the freezer for months or in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 days.
Electric Rice Cooker-Although this is not an essential piece of equipment, most Oriental kitchens that boast electricity do have an electric rice cooker. It provides the cook with an extra burner, and there is no need to watch the pot. Simply put the right amount of rice and water into the cooker, press a button, and lo and behold in half an hour the rice is ready, and perfect. Some rice cookers come with thermostats that will keep the rice hot for up to 5 hours.
Fish sauce (nuoc mam)-Nuoc mam is like Thai nam pla but stronger. This thin, brownish sauce is obtained by fermenting salted fresh anchovies. It is a prerequisite Vietnamese cuisine. "Squid" and "Ruang Tong" brands are widely available, bottled, in Oriental markets and some supermarkets.
Five-spice powder (huong-liu)-This fragrant, reddish brown powder is a blend of ground star anise, fennel or anise seed, clove, cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorns. It is used to flavor barbecued meats and stews. If possible, buy it in small amounts as it is very strong and a little goes a long way. It keeps indefinitely in a covered jar.
Flower waters/essences (nuoc hoa)-In Vietnam, flower waters and essences are often used to flavor sweet drinks and desserts. Most popular are jasmine, grapefruit and orange-blossom water. They are produced by distilling the fresh petals of these flowers. You may substitute flower essences, but they are more concentrated; use only a few drops. Flower waters and essences are sold in Asian or Indian markets, liquor stores and pharmacies.
Food Processors-Optional. In Vietnam, the many pates are purchased ready made from special stores. Vietnames abroad have now discovered that the pates they miss so much can be prepared with the food processor.
Fresh coriander (rau ngo/mui)-Also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley. The leafy green herb, resembling flat-leafed parsley, is highly scented, with a tart and refreshing taste. It is a prerequiste in Vietnamese cookery; without it, Vietnames food will not be authentic. Refrigerate, warapped in a moist paper towel, in a plastic bag. Like most fresh herbs, coriander should be added to a hot dish at the very end, since heat dissipates the flavor.
Galangal (rieng)-Also know as laos, its Indonesian name, garlangal resembles ginger but has zebra-like markings and pink shoots. If it is unavailable, substitute fresh ginger juice or ground galangal. Dried galangal is used only in soups and stews; soak before using. It is sold in Vietnamese and Thai stores
Gingeroot (gung)-Always use fresh ginger when you can; powdered ginger is a very poor substitute. Fresh gingerroot is available in Asian markets. Caribbean greengrocers and in most supermarkets. Select young rhizomes that are sweeter and more tender than older ginger, identified by large hair or fibers protuding from the root. Ginger can be frozen or refrigerated for months. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to peel ginger; the skin contains the vitamins. Ginger is used both its aromatic and chemical effects. It is added to fish, seafood and organ meats, not only to mask or remove objectionable odors, but to lend a subtle piquancy to the dish as well.
Glutinous rice (gao nep)-Also called "sweet rice," or "sticky rice." There are 2 types of flutinous rice: the Chinese and Japanese short-grained type and the longer-grained Thai variety, which is favored by the Vietnamese. THis rice has a soft, sticky texture with a slightly sweet flavor when cooked. Stuffed with mung bean paste and fresh bacon, it becomes rice cake (Banh Trung). a New Year's favorite. It is available at Vietnamese and Thai markets. Substitute Japanese moki rice.
Grass jelly (thach-den)-Also known as Xinh-Xao or Liangfen agar jelly in Chinese. Prepared from seaweed and cornstarch, this black jelly tastes and smells faintly of iodine. It is sold in cans at Asian markets. Drain and dice or shred the jelly before adding it to soybean milk or sweet drinks made of simple syrup, coconut milk, crushed ice and a few drops of jasmine water.
Gypsum (thach-cao)-Chemically known as calcined calcium sulfate, gypsum is also called plaster of Paris or plaster stone. This chemical agent has been used by the Chinese as a coagulant for bean curd for over a thousand years. It is sold at Chinese pharmacies.
Hoisin sauce-Hoisin sauce is a sweet, piquant brown paste made from soybeans, red beans, sugar, garlic, vinegar, chile, sesame oil and flour. Vietnamese cooks often mix it with broth, fresh chile pepper and ground peanuts to make a dip. It is also used as a barbecue sauce for meat and poultry. Available in cans or jars, different brands have slightly different flavors; "Koon Chun" is a slightly spicier brand. Refrigerate after opening.
Jicama (cu dau)-Jicama is a brown-skinned root vegetable resembling a turnip. The crisp, delicious white flesh tastes like a cross between a juicy pear, a crunchy water chestnut and a starchy potato. It must be peeled and may be eaten raw in salads or cooked. Jicama is available in Southeast Asian and Caribbean greengrocers as well as many supermarkets.
Lemon grass (xa)-Also called citronella root, lemon grass is an aromatic tropical grass that characterizes Vietnames and Thai cuisine. Only the bulb-like base of the stalk is used to impart a compelling balm-like flavor to food. It isn't always available fresh, so when you find some, but a few bunches. Cut the bulb portion up to the place where the leaves begin to branch, discarding the loose leaves. Freeze, wrapped in a plastic bag. When needed, peel off a layer of the tough outer leaves to disclose a white underlayer; crush lightly before slicing of chopping to release more flavor. Dried lemon grass is lemon grass that has been shredded and dried. Soak in warm water for 1 hour and then chop before adding to recipes.
Lily buds (hoa hien/kim cham)-Also called "golden needles," these are the buds of a special type of lily (Hemerocallis fulva). The pale gold, 2-3-inch-long dried buds are often used in combination with tree ears and cellophane noodles to add texture to stir-fries, soups and stuffings. Soak them in warm water for 30 minutes, then remove the hard stems before cooking.
Long beans (dau dua)-As the name suggests, these beans can measure up to 2 feet in length. They are called "chopstick beans" in Vietnamese. These long beans are the immature pods of dry black-eyed peas. Select thin, dark, firm pods; the smaller the pods, the younger and more tender they are. They are available from Chinese greengrocers or at some Caribbean markets in the autumn. This vegetable is mostly enjoyed for its crunchy texture. Wash and cut into 2-inch lengths. Substitute string beans or tiny French green beans (haricots verts).
Lotus seeds (hat sen)-These seeds of the lotus plant resemble large, round peanuts. In Vietnam, where very fresh, young lotus seeds are available, they are eaten raw, used in stews, soups (especially in vegetarian cooking) and sweet confections. They also may be mashed into a paste and used as filling for Moon Cakes. Canned and dried lotus seeds are sold in Chinese markets. Canned lotus seeds need no preparation, while the dried ones must be soaked in water overnight and then boiled until tender.
Knives-Preparation of food for any cuisine requires the use of several sharp knives of the best quality one can affored. Good equipment w3ill last a lifetime with proper care. A good French chef's knife or a standard-weight number 3 Chinese cleaver are especially suitable for cutting meat and vegetables; they are not recommended for cutting through bones. We recommend a heavy number 3 Chinese cleaver for cutting through poultry and fish bones. Also of great convenience is a boning knife, for removing bones from chicken parts, whole poultry, or meat. Many cooks recommend carbon-steel knives. While such knives do hold a sharp edge longer, they have the disadvantage of discoloring certain ingredients (e.g., onion) and rusting if not carefully dried. Stainless steel is very hard and almost impossible to sharpen. However, Henckels and some other knife makers produce a no-stain high-carbon-stell blade, including a Chinese-style cleaver, which eliminates the disadvantage of carbon steel.
Mortar and Pestle-For making nuoc cham or for pounding meat or shrimp. For nuoc cham, a normal-sized ceramic or stone mortar and pestle are required. For heavier work, like pounding meat or shrimp, a heavier, larger stone mortar and pestle are needed. However, in many recipes food processors can be very satisfactory work-saving substitutes.
Mung beans, yellow (dau xanh)-Green mung beans are normally used to grow bean sprouts. Husked, green mung beans become yellow mung beans. Yellow mung beans are often used in preparing starchy dishes and sweets. They are sold in Asian and Indian markets as "peeled split mung beans. "Look for "Cock" or "Summit" brand.
Mushrooms, Chinese black (nam hunong)-These dried mushrooms are sold in 8-ounce packages at Oriental markets. They are expensive but highly esteemed for their distinct, robust flavor and succulent texture. These are different varieties but the best are fah goo (in Chinese): They have thick caps, 1 to 2-inches in diameter, and are light brown in color with prominent white cracks on their suface. Generally, they are very fragrant. Dried mushrooms require soaking. Strain and save the soaking liquid to add flavor to stocks and sauces. Though fresh or dried Japanese shiitake mushrooms are not as flavorful, they may replace Chinese mushrooms.
Mushrooms, straw (nam rom)-Attractive umbrella-shaped caps with a yellowish brown color distinguish these milk-flavored mushrooms. They are also know as "paddy straw" mushrooms because they grow on straw and rice husks. Considered a delicacy, they are added to soups and stir-fries. Straw mushrooms are available "peeled," in cans, at most Asian markets and at some supermarkets. Substitute canned button mushrooms.
Mushrooms, tree ears (nam meo/moc nhi)-Also called cloud ears or wood ears. The "ear" designation of these black, chip-like fungi refers to their convoluted shape, reminiscent of a human ear. The best reee ear mushrooms are the very tiny, wrinkled and barklike speciments that often are mislabeled as "dried vegetables." When soaked in water, they expand to four or five times their original size and become jelly-like and translucent but stay crisp. They are mainly used to add texture to stir-fries, stuffings and vegetarian dishes.
Oyster sauce (dao han)-Oyster sauce is a thick, richly flavored, slightly sweet-salty brown sauce made from oyster extract, soy sauce, sugar and vinegar. The flavor of different brands varies considerably; one of the best is "Panda" brand. It is sold bottled in Asian stores and most supermarkets. It is mainly used to season stir-fries.
Peanuts (dau phong)-Peanuts are an important ingredient in Vietnamese cooking. Raw peanuts are preferred because they are usually roasted and ground just before serving to release their intense nutty flavor. Peeled raw peanuts are sold in Asian markets. Peanuts are used for texture and flavor in dipping sauces and as garnish for cooked food.
Pickled shallots (cu kieu chua)-These are the very young, tender bulbs of scallions (spring onions), packed in vinegar, sugar and salt. They are used as a condiment to accompany grilled foods and noodle dishes or added as seasoning to sweet-and-sour dishes. Pickled shallots, sometimes called pickled leeks, are sold in jars or cans in Asian stores. The best quality comes in a jar; look for "Mee Chun, Champion" brand. Drain before using.
Potato starch (bot khoai)-Potato starch is added to meatballs and pates as a binder, yielding a slightly crunchy texture. Potato starch is available in the kosher foods department of supermarkets and in Asian markets.
Pork skin, dried shredded (bi heo kho)-These are sold only in Vietnamese markets. Look for "Viet My" or "Golden Dragon" brand.
Preserved vegetables (tan xai)-Called chong choy in Chinese, this condiment is a mix of cured bits of Chinese cabbage and seasonings. It is sold in small crocks at Chinses markets. Extremely pungent, it is used only in small amounts to add flavor to soups and noodle dishes. As it is quite sandy, be sure to rinse thoroughly before using.
Rice flour (bot gao/bot te)-This is a type of flour made from long-grain rice. Do not confuse it with glutinous rice flour, which is made from sweet rice; the two are not interchangeable. Rice flour is the basis for many rice noodle dishes and sweets. "Erawan" and "Tienley" are two excellent brands. It is sold in 1-pound bags in Asian Markets
Rice flour, glutinous or sweet (bot nep)-Glutinous or sweet rice flour is made from glutinous rice. It is used to make sweet confections. Look for "Erawan" or "Peacock" brand in Asian markets or for mochiko in Japanese stores.
Rice papers, dried (banh trang)-These round, translucent, brittle sheets are made of rice flour, water and salt and are sold in Asian markets. Their cornstarch patten comes from being dried on bamboo trays. They are essential in preparing the national dish Cha Gio. They come in various sizes of round and triangular shapes. The round papers are used for spring rolls, while the triangular ones are used at the table to wrap grilled foods. Stor, sealed in a plastic bag, in a cupboard. Soften, a sheet at a time, in warm water until flexible and ready to use. There is no substitute. Chinese egg-roll wrappers will not do; they are too thick.
Rice powder, roasted (thinh)-A prerequistie in Vietnames cooking, this traditional flavoring may be bought in Vietnamese groceries or can be easily prepared at home
Rice sticks (banh pho)-Also called "dried rice sticks." Rice sticks are flat thin noodles made from rice flour and water; they are available dried in 1-pound packages in most Asian markets. There are 3 sizes to choose from: wide, medium and narrow strands. The wide variety is used primarily in stir-fries, although some people like to use it in soups. The medium size is most popular; it is used in the traditional soup pho. in cold or warm noodle salads and stir-fries. The narrow size is more suitable for noodle soups.
Rice vermicelli, thin (bun)-Called Mai fun in Chinese. These thin, brittle, white rice noodles are dried in 8-inch looped skeins. They are packaged in layers and sold in Asian markets. Look for "Double Swallow" or "Mount Elephant" brand. Bun are used in soups and noodle salads and are served cold at the table as an accompaniment to grilled or curried dishes. The best substitute is Japanese alimentary paste noodles or somen.
Rice vermicelli, extra-thin (banh hoi)-As bun above, banh boi is a rice noodle variety as fine as hair, possibly the thinnest of all noodles. They are packed, dried, in 1-pound packages, containing 8 individual portions swirled into a square cake. Look for "Summit" brand. Banh hoi are so thin they need almost no cooking. They are used primarily as an accompaniment to grilled foods.
Rice vinegar (giam gao)-Use rice vinegar instead of white vinegar in numerous recipes of its mild, sweeter taste. Sold in Asian markets and supermarkets, the Japanese varieties "Marukan" and "Chikyu-uma" are excellent.
Rock sugar (duong phen)-Also called "rock candy" or "yellow rock sugar," the name aptly describes this sweetener that looks like a crystallized rock. It is made from white sugar, brown sugar and honey and, therefore, is much sweeter than regular sugar. It is sold in 1-pound bags in Chinese groceries. Store in the refrigerator. Cover the lumps with a cloth, then crush into a powder using a mallet or hammer. It is used to season Vietnamese sausages and meatballs. Substitute white sugar.
Sesame oil (dau me)-The Oriental type of sesame oil is a rich-flavored, amber-colored oil obtained from pressed roasted sesame seeds. A dash or two is added to marinades or at the last moment of cooking to flavor certain dishes. Do not confuse this type of oil with the cold-pressed, unroasted sesame oil sold in health food stores, which is insipid in flavor. Look for "Kadoya" brand. Store in a cool, dark place to prevent rancidity.
Sesame seeds (me)-Sesame seeds are sold hulled or unhulled in Asian markets, health food stores and supermarkets. Hulled white sesame seeds are preferred. A day-to-day ingredient Vietnam, toasted and crushed sesame seeds are used to flavor dipping sauces and marinades or to coat sweets and other foods. After roasting, they lose flavor rapidly, so be sure to toast them as close to serving time as possible.
Shrimp chips (banh phong tom)-Labeled as "prawn crackers" or kroepoek (in Indonesian), these dried, redish pink chips are made from ground shrimp, tapioca starch and egg whites. They are popularly eaten in Vietnam as a snack or as an accompaniment to salads. They are sold in 2 sizes: small and large. Small chips are usually tastier; look for "Pigeon" brand, packed in 8-ounce boxes. Shrimp chips must be deep-fried before serving. As their Vietnamese name indicates (literally, puffed shrimp chips), they swell to triple their size as soon as they hit the hot oil. Store tightly sealed in a plastic bag.
Shrimp sauce (mam tom/mam ruoc)-This very pungent product is made from pounded, salted fermented shrimp. It is grayish pink and sold in bottles or jars at Vietnamese and Chinese grocery stores; "Lee Kum Kee" brand is excellent, but try to obtain "Mam Ruoc Ba Giao Thao," the best Vietnamese product on the market. In Vietnam, shrimp paste is commonly used to flavor soups, salads, dipping sauces, fried rice and dishes containing pork or beef. Do not confuse with Thai dried shrimp paste. Substutute anchovy paste.
Somen (Japanese alimentary paste noodles)-Delicate thin white noodles made from wheat flour, somen resembles the traditional bun (rice vermicelli) of Vietnam in texture and flavor. Even after cooking, somen stays moist at room temperature or refrigerated. It comes in 1-pound boxes with 5 individual bundles tied by a black ribbon.
Soybeans, dried (dau nanh)-Soybeans are the edible dried seeds of the Glycine Soja plant. Used in the production of bean curd (tofu), they are the main ingredients in preparing soybean milk and jellied bean curd. They are sold in Oriental groceries.
Soybean sauce (tuong)-Soybean sauce is a traditional light brown sauce prepared from a soybean product in which the ground beans are mixed with water, roasted rice powder and salt. It is sold, bottled, only in Vietnamese groceries. Do not confuse soybean sauce with the saltier, thicker Chinese ground bean paste. Vietnamese vegetarians commonly utilize this sauce. Substitute yellow bean sauce, diluted with a little water.
Soy sauce (si dau)-Where soy sauce is required, Japanese "Kikkoman" or "light" soy sauce should be used. It is lighter in color and different in taste and saltiness from regular Chinese soy sauce, which is dark and stains food black.
Star anise (hoi huong)-Star anise is the dried pot of an exotic tree of the Magnoliaceaes family, native to China. Mainly grown in the Lang-Son region (north Vietnam), this bark-like spice has cloves that resemble an eight-pointed star. Not related to aniseed, it yields a stron licorice flavor and is used to enhance soup and stews. When chewed, it sweetens the breath and aids digestion. Sold in Asian markets and spice shops. Substitute anise seed.
Steamer-An authentic Vietnamese steamer is made of metal, usually aluminum. It consists of a pot in which water is boiled and at least two more metal inserts (restaurant steamers usually have five) that fit directly on the lower pot of water, one above the other. These inserts are perforated, allowing wet steam to circulate frelly through them, enabling either a large quantity of one food or several different foods to be cooked at the same time. You can improvise a steamer by placing the bowl of food to be steamed in a large pot or roasting pan, making sure the sides of the bowl are high enough so the water comes halfway up. You can then cover the steamer and proceed with the recipe. If the bowl with the food is too shallow and you are afraid water to going to spill over into it, if would be best to place a rack with feet about 2 inches in height into the pan and then rest your dish on that. Steamers and racks can be purchased in Oriental grocery stores.
Sugar cane (mia)-Sugar cane is a tall tropical grass, having a fat, jointed stalk resembling bamboo. It is cultivated widely in Vietnam as a food crop and as a source of sugar. The juicy yellow flesh is spingy and stringy. In Vietnam, the pressed juice from the canes is served as a soft drink in the summer. Mulled with ginger, it becomes a hot beverage for the winter. It is sold fresh at Caribbean greengrocers and Asian markets but is more readily available canned. Fresh sugar can requires peeling.
Tamarind (me chua)-Tamarind is a sour-tasting fruit with shelled pods that contain seeds. It is usually added in liquid form to flavor soups, and this is obtained by soaking and straining the pulp of the pod. The pulp is sold, soft-dried, in 8-ounce bloks. "Erawan" brand is excellent. Store in an airtight container at room temperature; it will keep indefinitely. Substitute lemon juice or vinegar with a tough of sugar.
Tapioca starch/flour (bot nang)-This is the starch of the cassava root. A very important ingredient in preparing fresh noodle wrappers, it gives them a translucent sheen and chewiness.
Tapioca pearls (bot bing-bang)-These are granules made from the starch of the cassava root. Pearl tapioca is used mainly as a thickener and texture ingredient in certain soups and sweet puddings. It is available in Asian groceries and many supermarkets, packed in 8-ounce bags.
Taro root (khoai mon)-This oval-shaped tuber is distinguished by its brown, hairy skin with encircling ring. The flesh may vary from white to cream-colored, and is often speckled with purple. It tastes like bland potato with a very smooth, creamy texture. Vietnamese cooks use this starchy root the same way you would potato or sweet potato. Usually, small peeled chunks are steamed and added to a stew or sweet pudding.
Tropical mint (bac-ha)-Of the numerous Asian mint species, the round-leafed mint, a tropical variety of spearmint, is the one most commonly used by Vietnames cooks. This fragrant herb is an integral part of Vietnamese salads, especially in the traditional Vegetable Platter. Refrigerate, wrapped in a moist paper towel, in a plastic bag.
Turmeric (bot nghe)-Turmeric is the ground powder of a rhizome of the ginger family. Deep yellow in color, this spice is used primarily as a dye. It is sold in the spice section of all supermarkets.
Vietnamese pork sausage, boiled (gio)-This savory sausage is a very important ingredient in Vietnamese cuisine. It is sold, wrapped in banana leaves and aluminum foil, only in Vietnamese groceries. Keep some on hand in your freezer.
Water spinach (rau muong)-This aquatic plant may be considered Vietnam's national vegetable. It is not a relative of the Western spinach but is used in much the same way. It thrives in swamps but grows equally well on dry land. It has hollow stems and light green arrowhead-shaped leaves. It is prized by Vietnamese cooks for its outstanding contrast in tewxture between crunchy stems and limp leaves with a mild taste like spinach, when cooked. It is sold by the bunch at Chinese and Vietnamese greengrocers. Soak in water and wash thoroughly before using. To use, cut into 2-inch lengths and discard the stalk's bottom inch or so. It is good for stir-fries and soups. The stalks may be finely shredded, soaked in cold water to curl and then added raw to salads. Substitute regular spinach.
Yeast ball (men)-Men is also known as "wine ball," an Oriental dry yeast used in making rice wine. It is sold in Vietnamese and Chinese food stores or pharmacies. Relatively small, this round, grayish ball is usually sold in pairs, wrapped in a tiny plastic bag; ask for it.